Against the Grain
From the Print Edition: The Economist
IS THE global fad for quinoa a bane or boon to the peasants of the Andes? For centuries they were more or less the only people to grow or eat the stuff. Dieticians in the rich world have known how nutritious it is for a long time: in 1993 a study by NASA, America’s space agency, stated: “While no single food can supply all the essential life-sustaining nutrients, quinoa comes as close as any other in the plant or animal kingdom.” But it took adulation from the likes of Oprah Winfrey (who in 2008 included it in her 21-day “cleanse” diet) to give the grain global appeal. Now, wherever yuppies can be found, it can be too, usually lurking near Puy lentils or goji berries in a salad. The UN even branded 2013 the International Year of Quinoa.As demand galloped ahead, supply could not keep pace. So between 2000 and its peak in 2014, the average price of quinoa exports from Peru and Bolivia more than tripled, to $6-7 a kilogram. That panicked the Guardian, a British newspaper, among other hand-wringers: in 2013 it ran the headline “Can vegans stomach the unpalatable truth about quinoa?” It accused heedless Western hipsters of pricing poor Andeans out of their staple food. Given that 16% of Bolivians and 7.5% of Peruvians are undernourished, according to the UN, that is a serious charge.
Happily, the food fadsters are not guilty. Although average quinoa consumption in Peru fell as quinoa prices rose, it did so steadily, and much less abruptly, than the movement in the price. This suggests that the switch was as much to do with changing preferences as prices. Young Peruvians are keener to indulge in food fads of their own—for more Western food—than to gorge on their grandparents’ staple.
Not so keen on quinoa
In any case, only a tiny portion of Peruvian household spending is
devoted to quinoa. In countries like Bangladesh, Malawi and Vietnam,
sharp increases in the price of staple foods can plunge the poor into
even deeper poverty, as they often spend more than a third of their
income on them. But a study by Andrew Stevens at the University of
California found that quinoa accounted for a mere 0.5% of household
spending, on average.For farmers, meanwhile, higher prices meant higher incomes. Peruvian and Bolivian quinoa-growers need all the money they can get. Before the boom, many were barely scraping by. Another study, published in March, found that the total household spending of the typical quinoa-growing family (including consumption of their own crop) was only 40% of that of the typical quinoa-consuming family.
Surging prices helped lift quinoa farmers’ household expenditure by 46% between 2004 and 2013 (compared with an increase of around 30% for non-producing households). Better still, even households that did not produce quinoa enjoyed a boost to their consumption. It seems that by spending their newfound income, flush quinoa producers benefited the local economy more broadly. For every 25% increase in the price, household consumption increased by 1.75%.
View the entire article online: http://www.economist.com/news/finance-and-economics/21699087-fad-andean-staple-has-not-hurt-pooryet-against-grain